Japan 2025: Tokyo – Kyoto – Osaka – Tokyo

✈️ Day 1 – Landing in Tokyo & Our First Taste of Japan

After months of planning, packing, and Pinterest boards, we finally boarded our direct British Airways flight to Tokyo Haneda. The flight was smooth, and we were pleasantly surprised by the food; a beef teriyaki and vegetable rice dish, and a vegetarian pasta for Nino, both followed by a lovely sticky toffee pudding. The morning’s “full English” was a nice touch too.

But one word of advice? Pack snacks. BA no longer offers much between meals, we had one small packet of chive crackers, and that was it for about seven hours. Gone are the days of in-flight ice creams and mid-movie snack trays. Luckily, our pre-boarding snack stash (crisps, sweets and a sneaky chocolate bar or two) saved the day.

📲 Sorting Out Data & Travel Must-Haves

One thing we’ve learnt from previous trips, don’t rely on public Wi-Fi. As tempting as it is to wing it, Japan doesn’t have universal coverage in the way you might expect from such a tech-savvy country. So we headed straight to pick up an eSIM package — 28 days of unlimited data for about £30–40. Worth every penny.

Google Maps quickly became our most-used app. From directions to restaurant reviews, it was our digital sidekick. And for peace of mind when splitting up or making bookings on the go, this was an essential.

Next stop: Suica Card. Think Oyster card, but better. You can use it not just on trains and subways but also:

• 🛍️ In convenience stores
• 🥤 At vending machines
• 🚕 In selected taxis
• 🍜 Even in some restaurants

We actually recommend downloading the Suica app and linking it to your phone wallet. It saves queueing at ticket machines, which can be chaotic during peak travel times.

🚖 The Taxi Hack for Day 1

Here’s something we hadn’t factored in: Tokyo train stations are intense. After a long-haul flight with luggage, battling the maze of transfers and platforms isn’t fun, so we called an Uber to our hotel in Shinjuku.

It’s pricier than the train, sure, but honestly? On Day 1, it saved our energy (and our backs).

🏨 Checking In – Daiwa Roynet Hotel, Shinjuku

Our home base for the Tokyo leg of the trip was Daiwa Roynet Hotel, and from the moment we stepped into the lobby, we noticed something charming — Japanese hotels love freebies.

At check-in, we were invited to help ourselves to:

• 🧴 Lotions, razors, toothbrushes
• 🍵 Tea bags and instant coffees
• 🍬 Even sweets and slippers
• 👘 Pyjamas (yes, provided daily!)

We arrived hours before check-in, but the staff called housekeeping, worked their magic, and had our room ready by 11am instead of 1pm. A small but appreciated touch of Japanese hospitality.

🚽 Welcome to the Toilet of the Future

Let’s take a moment to appreciate something we’d only heard rumours about: the Japanese toilet.

We opened the bathroom door, and… the seat was already warm. There were buttons — so many buttons. You could:

• 🎶 Play ambient sound to mask any awkward noises
• 💦 Trigger rear or front washing with adjustable pressure
• 🌡️ Control water temperature
• 🍑 Air dry. Yes. AIR. DRY.

At first, we were scared to press anything, unsure what might activate next. But by the end of the trip? We were fully converted. Western toilets suddenly felt… outdated.

😴 A Quick Power Nap & Our First 7-Eleven Run

We allowed ourselves a quick nap (time zones were catching up), then ventured out on our first Tokyo wander — and naturally, made a beeline for 7-Eleven.

Now forget everything you know about convenience stores back home. Japanese konbinis are on another level. The shelves were stacked with:

• 🥪 Viral egg salad sandwiches (yes, they’re worth the hype)
• 🍙 Onigiri rice balls with every filling imaginable
• 🍢 Oden simmering in hot broth by the tills
• 🍰 Matcha desserts, puddings and sweet buns

We picked up a few snacks for the road, then headed to our first real Tokyo experience: Shibuya Crossing.

🚦 Chaos & Calm at Shibuya

Seeing Shibuya Crossing in person is surreal. In photos, it looks massive, and while the actual size isn’t as huge as we imagined, the sheer energy of it makes up for it. The lights flash, the music blasts from billboards, and suddenly you’re swept into a flow of people all criss-crossing the street in what looks like a choreographed dance.

We ducked into a few vintage shops nearby and slowly started getting our bearings. We were tired but excited, and curious to try our first Japanese McDonald’s (don’t judge).

🍔 A McDonald’s Detour – Hits & Misses

We tried:

• 🍖 Teriyaki Rib Burger
• 🍤 Shrimp Burger
• 🍟 Fries with a paprika shaker bag (surprisingly addictive)
• 🍇 Melon and Grape soft drinks – absolute winners

Truthfully, the burgers were underwhelming, but those drinks? We still think about them.

By the time we got back to the hotel, our legs were heavy and our heads were spinning — not just from the time difference, but from taking in so much stimulation.

Tokyo was already full of surprises, and we were only just getting started.d with plushies, cards and nostalgic merch. A must-see for 90s kids (and current Pokémon obsessives).

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🌅 Day 2 – Temples, Shibas & Sumo Wrestling

One of the perks (or curses?) of jet lag is the accidental 3am wake-up call. Luckily, being up before the sun turned out to be a blessing. By 6:30am, we were showered, dressed, and out the door — coffee in hand — heading to one of Tokyo’s oldest and most iconic landmarks: Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa.

⛩️ Morning Calm at Senso-ji Temple

Even by 7am, the temple grounds already had a gentle trickle of visitors — mostly locals quietly going about their morning rituals. There’s something about the stillness that early that makes you slow down.

We washed our hands at the purification fountain — a ritual using long-handled ladles to rinse your left hand, then right, then mouth. It was almost meditative.

As we approached the main shrine, the smell of incense filled the air. We bowed, clapped twice, and made a small offering. It felt strange to be somewhere so serene in a city this big — a true pocket of stillness within Tokyo’s buzz.

Just outside the temple, we drew omikuji (fortune slips). Mine read somewhere between “so-so” and “slightly worrying”, while Divina’s came out lucky — not bad for our second day in Japan.

🐕 A Visit to Rio Dog Café – Tokyo’s Four-Legged Locals

After wandering through Nakamise Street, where market stalls were just starting to open, we made our way to something slightly more modern (and adorable): the Rio Dog Café.

If you’ve never been to an animal café before, Tokyo is the place to try one. We were led into a bright room filled with small to mid-sized dogs of all breeds, most of whom were snoozing, ignoring us, or peeking at us cautiously from across the room.

There’s a quiet respect even among the dogs, like they’re not there to perform or entertain, just to co-exist. Honestly, it felt quite similar to the way many Japanese people interact in public spaces, polite, reserved, and with a quiet kind of independence.

One of the dogs, a mini Italian greyhound named Rajah, was the first to warm up to us. He gently jumped up to take a treat from my hand — cautious but curious. Divina was completely smitten.

By the end, a few more had come to say hello. They weren’t overly excitable, just calm and chilled in that way only animals raised in peaceful homes tend to be. It wasn’t just about cuddles — it was an insight into how animals are treated in Japan: with patience, space, and softness.

☕ Latte Art & Hello Kitty Foam

Feeling recharged (and still partially covered in dog fur), we popped into a nearby café that served Geisha coffee, a rare, premium bean known for its floral and tea-like notes — and, most importantly, Hello Kitty latte art made from milk foam.

We didn’t expect to be impressed by foam, but the detail was actually incredible. Little whiskers, a bow, tiny paws. It felt wrong to stir it in — like ruining a masterpiece. But eventually, caffeine won.

Japanese café culture definitely has an artistic flair. From 3D foam to character desserts, the presentation of food here is just as important as the flavour — sometimes even more.

🍜 Dinner with Sumo Wrestlers – A Full-Bodied Evening

Later that evening, we had something very different lined up — a Sumo dinner and live match experience.

The venue was small and intimate, with low tables and an open stage area in the middle. First, we were served a traditional chanko nabe — the kind of rich, protein-packed hotpot sumo wrestlers actually eat during training. It came with a selection of sides: tofu, fish, ramen, and pickles.

The real event, though, was the live sumo demonstration. Two wrestlers stomped into the ring, slapping their thighs and shouting loudly — the energy in the room immediately shifted. It was intense, physical, and surprisingly fast-paced.

Then came the moment I won’t forget: audience participation. Yep. I somehow got roped into climbing up onto the mat and taking on one of the wrestlers. Just to be clear, I did not win. I barely lasted five seconds. But it was hilarious, sweaty, and probably the most Tokyo thing I’ve ever done.

We ended the evening full, tired, and absolutely buzzing from everything we’d packed into one day: sacred shrines, soft Shibas, foamy coffee art, and a proper brush with Japan’s national sport.

Already, Tokyo was showing us just how much you can experience in 24 hours, if you’re willing to start the day before sunrise.

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🎢 Day 3 – DisneySea Dreams, Mochi Dumplings & Sun-soaked Magic

If Day 2 was about ancient shrines and sumo-sized dinners, Day 3 was a deep dive into childhood wonder, because today was all about Tokyo DisneySea.

We’d heard people say it’s the best Disney park in the world. Not just “great for Japan” but genuinely a standout globally. After spending a full day here, we get it.

🎟️ Getting In – Big Queues, Big Tips

We arrived around 9am and were immediately met with massive queues. Even just getting into the park felt like a military operation, but everything ran smoothly, Japanese efficiency in full force.

Here’s a tip: use the DisneySea app ahead of your visit to reserve ride entry times or book Premier Access passes (essentially fast passes). They’re not cheap, but if you’re only there for one day, they’ll save you hours in queues.

Also worth trying: single-rider queues. These were great for big rides like Indiana Jones and Raging Spirits, we got on way quicker than couples in line together.

🧚‍♀️ Fantasy Springs & Favourite Rides

The park itself is massive — and visually stunning. You don’t just feel like you’re in different themed lands, you feel like you’re in entirely different countries. The newest addition, Fantasy Springs, was pure Disney magic.

We didn’t manage to do every ride (unless you have two days, it’s impossible), but our favourites were:

• 🌊 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea – atmospheric and surprisingly eerie
• 🏰 Soaring: Fantastic Flight – like flying through the world in 4D
• 🐍 Indiana Jones Adventure – a high-speed thrill through ancient ruins
• 🌀 Aquatopia – a water ride that looks like bumper boats but is way smoother and smarter

Even just walking around was a joy. There’s always music playing, and every corner of the park has something to discover — tucked-away pathways, pop-up character shows, or food carts serving things you didn’t know you needed.

🍡 Disney Snacks We’ll Never Forget

Let’s be honest — part of the reason we were excited to go to DisneySea was for the snacks. Japan is famous for themed food, and Disney takes it up a notch.

Here’s what we tried:

• 🥒 Pickle Pop – yes, a pickle on a stick. Salty, crunchy, strangely addictive
• 🌈 Toy Story Alien Mochi – filled with chocolate, custard and strawberry cream
• 🔥 Crème Brûlée Churro – warm, crispy, caramelised heaven
• 🍿 Flavoured Popcorn – each section of the park had a unique flavour (we tried curry, soy sauce & butter, and white chocolate!)
• ❄️ Mickey Ice Bar – the perfect way to survive the Tokyo heat

It was so hot on the day we went. Japanese visitors came prepared, many carried foldable fans or even umbrellas for sun protection. We, on the other hand, melted slowly in our excitement and sugar highs.

🎶 Mickey’s Big Band Beat & A Little Break

In the afternoon, we took a breather in the Broadway-style theatre for Mickey’s Big Band Beat, a jazzy, live band show featuring Mickey and friends playing instruments, dancing, and giving us 30 glorious minutes in an air-conditioned seat.

Even if you’re not travelling with kids, the show was impressive. Plus, the sitting down was very, very welcome.

🍝 Dinner at Ristorante di Canaletto – Disney, But Make It Fancy

Our dinner booking was at Ristorante di Canaletto — DisneySea’s Italian fine dining spot set on a faux Venetian canal.

We weren’t expecting much, but we were genuinely impressed. The scallop starter was delicate and fresh, and the shrimp linguine was packed with flavour. Eating by the water, with gondolas floating past, was a calm and classy end to such a full-on day.

We were planning to stay for the fireworks… but by 8:30pm we were absolutely knackered. We shuffled back to the train and collapsed back into bed at the hotel.

Feet sore, stomachs full, and hearts completely content..

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🗻 Day 4 – The Elusive Mt Fuji, Soufflé Pancakes & a Much-Needed Reset

Today didn’t quite go to plan, but Japan has a funny way of making even the detours feel magical.

We had one goal: see Mt Fuji. But if you’ve ever tried, you’ll know that catching a glimpse of her isn’t easy. Fuji-san is notoriously shy, often hidden behind layers of cloud and mist, especially outside of winter.

🌤️ Fuji Spotting – Chasing a 10/10 Visibility

We’d been checking the live visibility tracker obsessively for days. If you’re planning to do the same, this is the site to bookmark: fuji-san.info. It gives you real-time visibility ratings from locations around the mountain. You want to look for a visibility score of 10 — that’s your golden window.

At 3:30am, bleary-eyed and hopeful, we checked the feed. Clear skies. Fuji visible. This was it.

We quickly got ready and began our journey from Shinjuku to Kawaguchiko, a multi-train trip taking around two hours. As the train rattled further into the countryside, we kept looking out the window, expecting that dramatic snow-capped silhouette to appear.

But about three-quarters of the way there, the dreaded fog began to roll in. Like watching someone slowly pull a curtain across the sky. The visibility rating dropped minute by minute. Our hearts sank.

After some debating (and a few stubborn attempts to “wait it out”), we made the reluctant decision to turn back.

We didn’t see Mt Fuji. Not today. But in a strange way, the effort wasn’t wasted. The journey made us slow down, and it reminded us just how unpredictable — and humbling — travel can be.

🥞 Pancake Therapy – Fluffy, Cloud-Like Comfort

Back in Tokyo, morale was… low. So we turned to something Japan does extraordinarily well: desserts that make you feel like you’re floating.

We found a small café near our hotel serving Japanese soufflé pancakes — the kind that wobble when you jiggle the plate. If you’ve never tried them, imagine a cross between a sponge cake and a meringue, but cooked like a pancake and so light they practically melt in your mouth.

We ordered a stack topped with fresh strawberries and whipped cream, dusted with icing sugar, and doused in syrup. After a morning of fog and failed Fuji views, it was the exact emotional support meal we needed.

🧘‍♂️ Rest Mode Activated

We let the rest of the day unfold slowly. We wandered around Shinjuku, browsed a few shops, picked up some konbini snacks (still obsessed with the 7-Eleven egg sandwiches), and caught up on sleep back at the hotel.

And honestly? We needed it. With so many early mornings and packed itineraries, this day felt like our first proper breath. A little reminder that not every day has to be extraordinary for it to matter.d a measuring jug in the hotel room — like a culinary MacGyver. The rest of the day was spent pottering around Shinjuku and prepping for our next big day.

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🛍️ Day 5 – Takeshita Street Chaos, Matcha Donuts & Our Date with Pudding the Dog

After a rest day and the emotional rollercoaster of chasing Mt Fuji, we were back out exploring — and today was all about Harajuku, Japan’s capital of youth fashion, eccentric food trends, and general sensory overload.

We jumped on the train using our trusty Suica cards (honestly, if you don’t have one by now, you’ll be wasting way too much time queuing for paper tickets), and made our way to Takeshita Street.

🎌 Takeshita Street – A Crowd Crush of Colour

Takeshita Street is intense. Think Camden Market meets a pop concert, with bubblegum-coloured shops, anime fashionistas, and crowds of teenagers all pushing through the same narrow alley. It was a lot — but also kind of amazing.

At the entrance, there’s a large LED screen set into an archway that everyone queues to get a photo under. Just a heads up: it’s not that impressive. The quality of the screen is quite pixelated (think CCTV from the early 2000s), and the crowd it draws ends up blocking the flow of the street. We snapped a quick pic and kept moving.

Harajuku is known for being experimental — from goth lolita dresses to cosplay looks straight out of anime. Even if you’re not there to shop, it’s a brilliant place to people-watch. Everyone expresses themselves here in some way.

🐖 Mipig Café – Micro Pigs & Mixed Feelings

One of the more unusual experiences on our trip was a visit to Mipig Café, a cosy micro pig house tucked away in Tokyo. Guests check in, remove their shoes, and find a spot to sit — before the staff begin bringing in tiny piglets to snuggle on your lap.

At first, it felt incredibly sweet. The pigs were undeniably adorable — some would curl up and fall asleep, while others playfully nudged and climbed over each other. But after sitting there a while, we started to feel a bit conflicted.

It became clear that the pigs were being continuously fed treats to keep them interested in sitting with people, not out of choice, but as a conditioned routine. And with the high turnover of customers, it was hard not to see it as a constant cycle of overhandling.

While we’d previously tried animal cafés like the dog café with lighthearted curiosity, this one left us feeling uneasy. It was a reminder that, as cute and novel as these cafés can be, there’s a fine line between interactive and exploitative. Going forward, it’s definitely made us more conscious of how animal cafés operate and whether our presence supports the animals’ wellbeing or just the photo opportunity.

🍩 “I’m Donut?” – The Viral Treat (That’s… Fine?)

One place we knew we had to try was the trending “I’m Donut?” — yes, that’s its real name. We queued for around 20 minutes (which is actually short by Japanese viral food standards), and picked up a few of their signature donuts:

• 🍓 Berry cream filled
• 🍵 Matcha custard
• 🧂 Salted caramel

They were fluffy, brioche-like, and nicely filled — but honestly? A bit overhyped. The flavours were subtle to the point of disappearing, and while they looked cute, we wouldn’t say it was worth a detour. Still, the experience was part of the fun, and we can tick it off the “tried it” list.

🐾 Dog Heart Café – Walking Pudding

Next up was one of the most heartwarming experiences of the trip: a visit to Dog Heart Café, where you can rent a dog to walk and play with for an hour.

We were paired with Pudding, a tiny little floof who barely made a sound and mostly wanted to be carried like a small royalty. She had these big brown eyes that immediately made you fall in love, and she was so calm and trusting with us.

We took her for a walk around a small nearby park. Watching her sniff the grass and trot along made us both melt. We gave her treats, took pictures, and sat on a bench while she lay happily beside us.

By the end of the hour, she started getting playful, tugging gently at the lead, nibbling at blades of grass, and snuggling close. Part of me wanted to smuggle her into my backpack and bring her home, but we said goodbye with cuddles and one last photo.

It might sound like a novelty, but the bond you feel — even in just an hour — is real. For dog lovers away from home, it’s a surprisingly emotional experience.

🌆 Winding Down in Shinjuku

Back in Shinjuku, we wandered the neon-lit backstreets and grabbed a few konbini bites for dinner. Nothing fancy — just a quiet end to a really wholesome day.

Takeshita was chaotic, the donuts were a bit of a letdown, but walking with Pudding made it all unforgettable.

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🎮 Day 6 – Pokémon Café, Robot Waiters & Stepping into a Cartoon

Today was one of those jam-packed, quirky, only-in-Japan days where we felt like we were bouncing between childhood dreams, futuristic cafés, and stylish shopping hauls — and we loved every second.

We started early, on a mission to tick off one of the most exclusive bookings on our list: the Pokémon Café in Nihonbashi, Tokyo.

⚡ Pokémon Café – Nostalgia on a Plate

Getting a table at the Pokémon Café isn’t easy. Booking slots open up exactly 30 days in advance at 6pm JST, and they go fast. We got lucky with a last-minute cancellation, and immediately jumped on it.

From the moment we walked in, it was clear this was not about the food — it was about the experience. The walls were covered in life-sized Pikachus, the servers wore themed aprons, and every table had some kind of cute plush or decoration. It was chaos, but adorable chaos.

We told ourselves we’d be sensible with what we ordered… that didn’t last long:

• ⚡ Pikachu Curry Plate – shaped like Pikachu’s face, complete with ears and tail
• 🔥 Charizard Latte – actual fire printed in the foam art
• 🍇 Gengar Grape Slushie – purple, sweet, and very photogenic
• 💤 Snorlax Nap Plate – a heavy dish of rice, croquette, and omelette
• 🍓 Pokémon Berry Parfait – layered cream, jelly and Pokéball-shaped toppings

Was it overpriced? Yes.
Was the food made for 8-year-olds? Also yes.
Did we love it anyway? 100%.

We couldn’t help but buy some merch on the way out. There’s something nostalgic and wonderfully embarrassing about being grown adults spending too much money on plush toys and themed drinks. But that’s the charm of Japan — it lets you lean into joy without judgement.

🤖 DAWN Robot Café – Humanity Through a Screen

From childlike fun to quiet inspiration, our next stop took us to the DAWN Avatar Robot Café in Chuo City.

This wasn’t your typical robot café, no dancing androids or gimmicks. Instead, the robots here are controlled by real people with physical disabilities, often working from home via remote terminals. Each robot has a name, a personality, and a story.

Our server was Toma-chan, who chatted with us through her robot avatar and told us she was learning English and Norwegian so she could one day serve at DAWN’s future branches across Europe. Her voice came through gently from the robot, and you could see her pride in every sentence.

It was honestly emotional. This wasn’t just about tech, it was about connection. DAWN gives people who can’t physically leave their homes a way to participate in society again. And as customers, we weren’t just being served, we were being invited into someone’s world.

We stayed longer than we planned, just talking. And by the end, we both agreed it was one of the most meaningful experiences we’d had in Tokyo.

🛍️ GU Shopping in Ginza – Fashion Finds Without the Price Tag

After all that emotion, we decided to balance it out with some good old retail therapy. We headed to Ginza, Tokyo’s high-end shopping district, but instead of splashing out at Dior, we made a beeline for GU (Uniqlo’s sister brand).

If you love minimalist fashion at even more affordable prices than Uniqlo, GU is your place. And with Japan’s tax-free discount for tourists, we ended up getting quite a few pieces (honestly, pack light when coming to Japan, shopping is almost guaranteed).

Everything was clean, well-organised, and ridiculously well-priced. We stocked up on:

• 🧥 Oversized shirts and boxy tees
• 👖 Trousers and denim for a fraction of UK prices
• 🧢 Accessories for the next leg of the trip

🖤 2D Café – Living in a Sketchbook

Our final stop before dinner was a quick visit to one of Tokyo’s quirkiest little gems: the 2D Café. From the outside, it looks like an illustrated comic strip. Step inside, and you feel like you’ve been drawn into a manga panel.

The walls, tables, cups — even the chairs — are designed with heavy black outlines and flat shading that tricks the eye. It’s a fully immersive illusion, and genuinely makes you feel like you’re part of a cartoon.

We had a couple of iced teas and shared a small cake, but the real attraction here is just the vibe. Great for Instagram, sure — but also just one of those surreal moments where you think, where else in the world would you find this?

🌃 Night Life in Shinjuku – Lights, Cats, Ramen

Back in Shinjuku, we decided to explore the night scene properly. If you think Tokyo’s impressive by day, wait until you see it at night. The neon lights, giant screens, packed arcades — it feels alive in a completely different way.

We made a stop at the giant 3D cat billboard that plays above one of the main buildings. It was crowded, but strangely soothing to watch this massive, animated cat blink and stretch above the city.

We ended with a late-night bowl of ramen from a tiny corner shop with about five seats total. No menu, just a vending machine with buttons we guessed at — and somehow, that gamble turned into one of the best bowls of the trip.

As we finally made it back to the hotel, bags in hand and feet aching, we couldn’t stop smiling. It was a long, strange, and beautiful day — the kind only Tokyo can deliver.

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🚅 Day 7 – Bullet Trains, Bento Boxes & Kyoto’s Traditional Welcome

Today marked a big shift — both in location and pace. We were leaving the futuristic buzz of Tokyo and heading to Kyoto, the cultural heart of Japan. And we were doing it in style: via the world-famous Shinkansen.

🧳 Morning Check-Out & Digital Reality

The morning was spent tying up a few loose ends. I had some work bits to catch up on (yes, I was that person juggling meetings and holiday mode), while Nino treated herself to something we’d heard a lot about but hadn’t tried yet — a proper Japanese head spa.

These aren’t just hair washes. The experience includes a scalp consultation, deep cleansing shampoo, pressure-point massage, and conditioning treatment. She came back looking like she’d slept for 12 hours and had zero tension left in her body. I, on the other hand, had emails.

🚄 The Shinkansen Experience – Trains, But Make It Beautiful

Then came the main event: boarding the Shinkansen to Kyoto. If you’ve never been on one of these bullet trains, they are genuinely a thing of beauty.

Running at speeds of up to 220mph, they’re impossibly smooth, whisper-quiet, and ridiculously punctual (we’re talking seconds, not minutes). Inside, the cabins are spotless, the seats recline like premium airline seats, and you can rotate the rows 180 degrees if you’re travelling in a group and want to face each other.

Luggage is stored either in racks overhead or in designated areas at the end of each carriage — or, like us, you can book seats at the very back so you can store your bags behind your seats.

The staff bow before entering and exiting each carriage. Everything feels respectful and orderly. It’s public transport… but luxurious.

🍱 Bento Box Heaven

One of the best parts of the Shinkansen experience? The bento box tradition.

Before boarding, I did a full sweep of Tokyo Station’s food stalls — and I mean full sweep. I couldn’t choose, so I stocked up on several:

• 🍖 Pork katsu with rice and sweet pickles
• 🥢 Grilled mackerel with tamagoyaki (rolled omelette)
• 🧆 Vegetarian croquettes with lotus root and burdock
• 🍰 Matcha mochi and a mini cheesecake for dessert

There’s something deeply satisfying about unboxing a bento — each compartment like a tiny, edible work of art. Balanced, beautifully arranged, and full of surprises. Eating one while watching the countryside blur past at lightning speed is the kind of moment you want to freeze.

🏯 Arriving in Kyoto – From Neon to Nature

As soon as we stepped off the train in Kyoto, the energy changed. Gone were the towering LED screens and sci-fi skylines — instead, we were met with lower buildings, quiet streets, and the occasional temple peeking out behind a cluster of trees.

We checked into our 100-year-old machiya, a traditional wooden guesthouse. It was completely different to anything we’d experienced in Tokyo. The walls were thin, the floors creaked, and the furniture was minimal — but everything felt deeply respectful, like stepping into a preserved slice of history.

The house had shared facilities with a few other guests, so we were asked to be mindful of noise and space. Our room had futons, tatami mat flooring, and fold-out bedding stored in cupboards. The mattress was firmer than we were used to, but this was exactly the kind of authentic stay we wanted for this part of the trip.

It wasn’t luxury, it was presence. There was no distraction. Just a slow rhythm, clean lines, and the distant sound of temple bells if you left the window open.

🌙 Kyoto’s First Impressions

We didn’t try to cram too much in today. After settling in, we took a gentle stroll around the streets nearby. Small shops selling handmade fans, noren curtains hanging above doorways, the smell of incense wafting from a hidden shrine, Kyoto felt older, calmer, wiser.

We picked up a light dinner from a local konbini (they even had regional specialities we hadn’t seen in Tokyo), and turned in early, knowing that the next few days would be all about temples, traditions, and a deeper side of Japan.

And just like that, the city that once ruled Japan 1,000 years ago became our home for the next leg of the journey.nner at a nearby noodle house, sat cross-legged on cushions, and just soaked it all in.

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⛩️ Day 8 – Fushimi Inari, Fortune Slips & Kimonos in Gion

Today began with one of the most iconic sights in Japan: the bright orange torii gates of Fushimi Inari Shrine. You’ve definitely seen them in films or travel guides — the endless rows of gates winding their way up Mount Inari.

We set off bright and early, and if you’re planning a visit, this is the best advice we can give: get there before 9am. After that, it fills with tourists and school groups, which makes taking photos (or just enjoying the peace) a lot more difficult. We arrived around 7:30am, which gave us a quiet, calm window to explore the lower part of the shrine almost undisturbed.

🎐 Omikuji & Messages to Loved Ones

As part of the shrine ritual, we each bought an Omikuji — a fortune slip you draw at random. These can range from very good luck to not-so-great luck, but ours came with hopeful messages, so we decided to write our own notes to loved ones too. Messages of good health, protection, and gratitude. We hung them carefully on the boards next to hundreds of others — some scribbled in Japanese, others in Korean, Chinese, English. It was a small, personal moment shared in a very public space.

Josh decided to continue the full hike to the summit of Mount Inari. While the view at the top was a little underwhelming (not quite the panoramic scene you might expect), he really enjoyed the walk itself — peaceful, shaded, and lined with smaller shrines along the way.

Meanwhile, I stayed closer to the base, exploring the gardens and the temple grounds, soaking in the morning stillness.

🥢 Street Markets & Okonomiyaki

We reunited just in time to head into the Fushimi Inari Markets, a narrow stretch of street food stalls and souvenir shops. We tried okonomiyaki for the first time, a savoury pancake made with cabbage, crispy onions, and teriyaki sauce. It was hot off the grill, slightly gooey in the middle, and topped with bonito flakes that danced from the steam.

It was decent, tasty, but not hugely filling, and we found ourselves still hungry afterwards. While wandering the stalls, we noticed how popular Snoopy and the Peanuts gang were here — their faces were everywhere, from tote bags to snacks to plushies. Japan really has a way of celebrating niche characters in everyday life.

👘 Gion District & Dressing in Kimono

With the morning adventure done, we made our way to Gion, Kyoto’s historic district — famously home to the Geisha community.

But before exploring, we booked into a Kimono rental shop. This wasn’t just a quick costume change — it was a full experience. Divina had the full hair and makeup treatment, and we were carefully fitted into layers of traditional fabric. The kimonos themselves are much heavier than they look, and they require a surprising amount of tightening and folding, not to mention standing completely still while they’re being secured.

One thing we weren’t quite prepared for was the heat. Walking through the Kyoto sun in full kimono gear was boiling! But we carried on through the narrow stone lanes, past wooden houses and old storefronts, until we reached the five-storey pagoda — a perfect photo spot and a quiet moment to appreciate where we were.

Along the way, we kept our eyes peeled for Geisha, but as we learnt, they are very private and protected figures. Interacting with them without consent can land you in serious trouble, especially in Gion. We stayed respectful, observed from a distance, and appreciated the beauty of the district without disturbing anyone.

🍲 Homestyle Dinner at a Local Hideaway

After a full day of walking, dressing up, and sightseeing, we returned to our Airbnb, ready for some comfort food. Just a few minutes down the road, we stumbled across a tiny local restaurant, the kind you wouldn’t find unless you were staying in the neighbourhood.

There were only five people inside, and the space felt more like someone’s living room than a restaurant. We sat on the floor, cross-legged on tatami mats, and watched the chef work from what looked like their home kitchen. It was warm, intimate, and comforting, the perfect end to a long day steeped in tradition.

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🎋 Day 9 – Bamboo Forest Moments, River Adventures & a Nepalese Surprise

Another early start today, and we were off to Arashiyama, one of Kyoto’s most scenic districts. You’ve probably seen the photos of its famous bamboo grove, but being there in person adds a whole new dimension.

🌿 Arashiyama Bamboo Forest – Our Own Private Photo Moment

We weren’t the very first to arrive (some people really do get there with the sunrise), but we were still early enough to enjoy the forest without the huge mid-morning crowds. As we were walking along, we noticed a square-shaped section of bamboo had just been opened by the guards. Without hesitation, we dashed inside before others clocked on — and for a few glorious minutes, it was just us, the towering green stalks, and our own little photoshoot.

To be honest, it’s beautiful but a bit of a “once-you’ve-seen-one” moment. The atmosphere is serene, and it’s perfect for a quiet morning stroll, especially if you enjoy natural landscapes — but it’s not somewhere you’d spend hours. Still, totally worth seeing once, and early morning is definitely the time to do it.

🚣‍♀️ Hozugawa River Boat Ride – A Traditional Cruise with a Twist

Next, we took a Segawa train (a local line connecting Arashiyama to nearby scenic areas) and made our way to the launch point for the Hozugawa River Boat Ride.

This isn’t your average tourist boat. It’s a traditional wooden river cruise that’s been running for over 400 years, originally used to transport logs and goods from the mountains into Kyoto.

Although we weren’t visiting during cherry blossom season (when the trees lining the banks would be in full bloom), the scenery was still stunning. The river cuts through deep green valleys and rugged rock formations, giving you a completely different perspective of Kyoto.

We were in a boat with about 20–25 people, and had three tour guides, all of whom rowed manually and occasionally cracked jokes (which went over our heads in Japanese, but the locals were loving it). One of the highlights? A floating food boat came alongside us mid-ride, yes, a floating restaurant offering freshly grilled fish, cold drinks, and snacks right on the water. It was such a fun, unexpected moment and honestly one of the most unique things we’ve done so far. Highly recommend it!

🛍️ Souvenirs & Food Hall Lunch

After the cruise, we returned to Arashiyama, browsed a few souvenir shops, and popped into a local food hall for a quick bite. It was proper no-fuss Japanese food, fresh, simple, and comforting. Nothing fancy, but exactly what we needed after the sun-soaked river ride.

Speaking of which, the weather was scorching today. Not quite unbearable, but the kind of heat where you’re constantly grateful for vending machines and shaded alleyways.

💻 A Work Pause & Evening Reset

Back at the Kyoto guesthouse, we chilled for a bit and caught up on work, or rather, Josh did. With the UK time difference, his afternoons were the start of the business day back home, so he had a few hours to handle tasks while I relaxed.

We both agreed this part of the trip was becoming a bit of a rhythm: busy mornings exploring, quieter late afternoons to reset.

🍛 Nepalese-Indian Dinner – A Delicious Detour

That evening, we fancied something different from Japanese cuisine, and just down the road from our stay we found a Nepalese Indian restaurant. At first, we were slightly hesitant, we were the first ones there, and the place was eerily quiet. But within half an hour, it started to fill up.

We noticed something very common in Japan: lots of people dining alone, reading a book, eating slowly, keeping to themselves, but in a peaceful, content way. It’s something we’ve really admired during this trip.

As for the food? Genuinely brilliant. The spicy momos (dumplings) were the standout, juicy, flavourful, with just the right kick. They also had buffalo on the menu, which we considered trying but chickened out last minute. Maybe next time.

We walked home satisfied and sleepy, already looking forward to what Kyoto had in store for us next.

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🛕 Day 10 – Golden Reflections, Fermented Surprises & Last Bites in Kyoto

Our final day in Kyoto started with a bold choice: a traditional Japanese breakfast provided by our Airbnb host. We’d hoped for something comforting and warm… instead, we got a plateful of cultural shock (and a gut-healthy challenge).

🍱 A Breakfast We Weren’t Ready For

There was no menu beforehand — it just appeared, beautifully presented, but entirely unfamiliar. On the table:

• 🐟 Grilled mackerel
• 🍚 Boiled rice
• 🥣 Miso soup
• 🧊 Tofu
• 🫘 Natto — fermented soya beans

Now, if you’re not familiar with natto, it’s a very traditional Japanese food known for its slimy texture and very strong smell. It’s actually considered excellent for your gut health, packed with probiotics, but taste-wise, it’s… well, it’s an acquired one.

Luckily, a kind Japanese lady nearby gave us a quick demo on how to eat it properly. You’re supposed to stir it up until it gets stringy and then mix it into your rice. Even with her help, it still kind of tasted like something that had expired three years ago. We all looked at each other, us, a couple of Aussie travellers sitting next to us, sharing that polite tourist panic of “do we eat this?” and “how do we not offend anyone?”

We tried. We really did. Divina gave it her best. But safe to say, it’s not something we’ll be adding to the morning routine any time soon. Still, a unique experience and one that gives a huge insight into the Japanese philosophy of health-first eating.

✨ Kinkaku-ji – The Golden Pavilion

To balance out the culinary chaos, we headed to Kinkaku-ji, also known as the Golden Pavilion, and honestly, it was one of the most visually breathtaking spots on the trip.

The structure itself is covered in gold leaf, sitting beside a still pond and surrounded by perfectly manicured trees and gardens. The way it reflects off the water makes it feel almost surreal, like something out of a painting. Despite being one of Kyoto’s most popular attractions, it didn’t feel overcrowded. There was a sense of calm and reverence around the grounds.

The site is immaculately preserved, and while you can’t enter the building itself, the walking route around it offers amazing views from all angles. We got some of our favourite photos here — and genuinely just stood there for a while, taking it all in.

🛍️ Nishiki Market – Souvenirs, Snacks & Street Life

After a peaceful morning, we spent the afternoon in Gion, wandering through Nishiki Market. It’s a narrow, bustling arcade packed with food vendors, gift stalls, and quirky Japanese goods. You could easily spend hours here, and we did.

We picked up:

• Bonsai growing kits
• Local skincare products
• Small gifts for friends and family
• And yes… a lot of knives (it’s a thing — Japanese kitchen knives are world-class)

🐙 Takoyaki Trials

Josh was determined to try Takoyaki, a regional specialty made of diced octopus, batter, and cooked in specially moulded pans to form piping hot, golden-brown balls. They’re usually served with:

• Mayo
• Sweet/savoury brown sauce
• Bonito flakes (dried fish shavings that move when heated)

We found a popular-looking stall in the market and gave it a go… but the result was slightly underwhelming. The batter was soft and well-cooked, but the octopus was a bit too rubbery, and more than anything, they were dangerously hot.

The flavour was there, but we were both too busy trying not to burn the roofs of our mouths to enjoy it properly. Top tip: either cut them in half or wait a few minutes before diving in. You’ll thank us later.

🎒 Final Night & Packing Up

With our bellies (and suitcases) full, we returned to the guesthouse to get everything packed and ready for checkout the next day. We managed to fill our spare suitcase entirely with goodies — no regrets.

Kyoto had been a complete shift from Tokyo — more spiritual, more traditional, and definitely slower-paced. And as we prepared to move on to the next leg of our journey, we felt like we’d touched a more reflective side of Japan.

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🌸 Day 11 – Hello Kitty Trains, Fluffy Pancakes & Osaka’s Neon Energy

After Kyoto’s quiet charm, today marked a shift in tone, we were headed for the bustling, food-obsessed city of Osaka. Known as Japan’s kitchen and home to some of the friendliest locals, we were excited to dive into the city’s vibe and explore its vibrant streets.

🚄 All Aboard the Hello Kitty Shinkansen!

We made our way to Kyoto Station, luggage in tow, prepared to tackle what we’d already learned can be a pretty chaotic station experience. Japanese stations are incredibly efficient, but when you’re navigating with multiple bags, dodging peak-hour commuters and trying to find your platform, it can feel overwhelming.

Thankfully, today’s journey was smoother than expected, and even better, we boarded the Hello Kitty-themed Shinkansen!

From the seat fabrics to the curtains, everything was adorned with adorable Hello Kitty branding. It felt like a cheerful, pastel-coloured break from the usual train aesthetic and added a bit of unexpected fun to the journey. The ride itself was short and smooth (as always with the Shinkansen), and within an hour, we’d arrived in Osaka.

🏠 Self Check-In, Japanese Style

Our accommodation in Osaka was a self-check-in apartment, a system we’ve seen more commonly in Japan than in other countries. You scan your passport at a digital kiosk, and then receive a unique access code for the room. No reception desk, no queues, it’s streamlined, efficient, and perfect when you just want to dump your bags and get exploring.

🥞 Café Annon – The Pancake Pilgrimage

First stop: brunch. Specifically, pancakes, because if Japan does one unexpected food well, it’s this.

We headed to Café Annon in Namba, a popular spot known for its thick, jiggly Japanese-style pancakes. We queued for around 30 minutes, which seems to be the norm for popular dessert cafés in Japan.

We ordered:

• 🍵 Matcha soufflé pancakes – the traditional fluffy stack, delicately flavoured and beautifully plated
• 🍦 A modern version topped with Cremia soft serve (yes, the one in the cone with the gold flake swirl, a premium soft-serve that’s super creamy and rich)

They were good, don’t get us wrong, but we both agreed: our pancake peak may have already happened back at Musashino Mori Diner in Shinjuku. Those were unbeatable.

🛍️ Ebisu Bashi-Suji Shopping Street & Dotonbori Vibes

After food, we explored Ebisu Bashi-Suji Shopping Street, a covered pedestrian area packed with streetwear shops, beauty counters, and quirky boutiques. It’s a sensory overload in the best way, blinking lights, shouting store staff, music blasting from speakers.

From there, we followed the crowds to the famous Dotonbori Canal, Osaka’s most iconic area. If you’ve ever seen a photo of Osaka at night, chances are it was taken here. Neon signs light up every inch of the skyline, and the energy is electric.

Some standout sights:

• 🏃‍♂️ The Glico Running Man billboard — a must-visit photo op
• 🛳️ The Canal Cruise boats gliding past, filled with tourists snapping away
• 🎠 The giant Don Quijote Ferris Wheel (attached to a 24/7 megastore of chaos — part carnival, part bargain basement)

Compared to Tokyo, Osaka feels less polished, a little more street — in the best way. It’s like a mix of Tokyo’s lights with Kyoto’s personality, all rolled into one buzzing, snack-filled district.

🍣 Sushi Bar Dinner & Winding Down

For dinner, we kept it casual and ducked into a local sushi bar tucked just off the main strip. No frills, no over-the-top presentation — just fresh, flavourful sushi at the counter, surrounded by locals chatting over cold beers and sake.

We called it a night not long after — feet sore, stomachs happy, and minds buzzing with the energy Osaka brings. This city doesn’t slow down — and neither, it seems, will we.

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🧖‍♀️ Day 12 – Waterfall Head Spas, Melt-in-the-Mouth Wagyu & Vintage Dreams

By this point in the trip, the early mornings, city-hopping, and general buzz had definitely caught up with us. So, today was about one thing: recovery — but the stylish, indulgent kind.

💆‍♀️ Spa Day 2.0 – The Waterfall Head Experience

We booked in another head spa, but this one was even more luxe than the first. If you’ve seen clips on TikTok or Insta of people lying back as a stream of water cascades gently down their scalp — this is that exact experience.

Known as a waterfall-style head spa, it’s not just about washing your hair. It’s a whole treatment focused on:

• Scalp detox
• Deep relaxation
• Head and neck massage
• Hydration treatment for the roots

We left feeling genuinely reset — like we’d offloaded the mental clutter that builds up on such a fast-paced trip. Especially on longer travels, where even sleeping in new environments can throw you off, taking time to intentionally rest is a must, not a luxury.

If you’re ever in Japan and feeling worn out, we can’t recommend this enough.

🥩 Wagyu Heaven – The A5 Kobe Experience

Once we’d floated back to earth, we headed to one of the day markets in Osaka. This time, the focus wasn’t shopping, it was treating ourselves to lunch, and we went all in.

We ordered a few cuts of A5 Kobe wagyu — the highest grade of wagyu beef you can get. Perfect marbling, buttery richness, and it practically melts on your tongue. There’s no other meat quite like it.

If you’ve never tried wagyu in Japan, this is what you need to know:

• A5 is the highest quality rating
• Kobe is a specific type of wagyu from the Tajima strain of cattle
• It’s graded based on marbling, colour, and texture, and yes, it’s as indulgent as it sounds

The fattier, the better in this case. We walked away full and entirely satisfied, no regrets.

🛍️ A Vintage Win

In the afternoon, we split off for a bit. Josh had some work to catch up on, so he headed back to the hotel. Meanwhile, I went full vintage mode across the vintage shops in Osaka, and finally, after what felt like endless browsing, I found it:

A 1990 vintage Chanel bag, in pristine condition.

The quality? Impeccable. The price? Way better than anything I’d find back home. Japan’s vintage fashion game is seriously next level — both in terms of curation and care. Everything is authenticated, and many shops offer tax-free shopping if you show your passport.

Safe to say, I was completely shopped out by the end of it… for today, at least 😏

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🛍️ Day 13 – Chanel Scores, Ramen Dreams & A Well-Earned Win

We’re deep into the trip now, but the shopping and food haven’t slowed down one bit, and Osaka really delivered today on both fronts.

👜 Vintage Chanel Quest: Accomplished

Josh took it easy today and had a chilled one, while I went on a vintage mission.

My first stop? Book Off — part of a huge second-hand chain in Japan known for selling everything from books to rare vintage goods. I was determined to dig out something special, and let me tell you, Osaka came through.

After visiting 20 shops (yes, twenty!) and combing through countless shelves, rails, and glass display cases… I finally found not one, but two stunning vintage Chanel bags. Total. Win.

One of them was from a shop called Komehyo, a trusted name in luxury second-hand goods in Japan — highly recommended if you’re after authenticated designer finds at prices you will not find back home. The condition, the packaging, the experience — everything felt premium, even second-hand.

Honestly, Japan’s vintage shopping culture is next level:

• Every item is carefully graded (you’ll often see letters like A+, B+, etc.)
• Shops are spotless and curated
• And everything is genuine — authentication is taken seriously here

🍜 Ramen, But Make It Gourmet

Once I was well and truly shopped out, I met up with Josh again in Namba, and we decided to finish the day the way we know best — with good food. This time, we queued up for about 30 minutes at Kyushu Ramen Kio Dotonbori, a popular ramen joint that looked packed with locals — always a good sign.

And wow, it did not disappoint.

We tried:

• 🍅 A tomato ramen with grilled cheese — unexpected, but incredible. The grilled cheese added a gooey richness and gave it almost an Italian-Japanese fusion vibe
• 🐖 A rich, flavour-packed Chiaotzu pork ramen — deep broth, perfectly cooked pork, and full of umami goodness

The flavours were bold, the textures spot-on, and it was 100% worth the wait. Ramen in Japan really is on another level — even the casual spots serve bowls that would outclass many “high-end” ramen joints in the UK.

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🦌 Day 14 – Bowing Deer, Biting Chaos & Burgers in Nara

Today’s adventure took us out of Osaka and into the peaceful (and slightly chaotic) city of Nara — famous for its parks, temples… and of course, the freely roaming deer 🦌.

We’d seen the TikToks, we’d read the blogs, and yes, the deer that bow to you before accepting food really are a thing here. But we quickly learned: it’s not quite the zen Disney moment you might expect.

🎌 Nara Deer Park – Beauty Meets Bedlam

As soon as we arrived, we bought a stack of shika senbei (deer crackers), ready to try the polite bowing trick. The idea is simple: you bow to a deer, it bows back, you feed it. The reality? Slightly more feral.

There were more deer than tourists, and as soon as they spotted the crackers, it was game over. We got swarmed — tugged, nipped, and surrounded within seconds. They weren’t shy at all:

• Nibbling at clothes
• Nipping at bare skin
• Rummaging through bags
• One even tugged at someone’s dress

There were kids crying, tourists squealing, and a surprising amount of laughter in the chaos. It was equal parts adorable and alarming. But once the crackers were gone and the frenzy died down, things turned peaceful again. The deer bedded down in the park, lying across the grass in small groups. It was actually a beautiful moment — the calm after the crunchy snack storm.

💡 Tip: Go early in the day — the deer are calmer (and probably less aggressively hungry). Plus, you’ll avoid the bigger tour groups and get better photos in the softer light.

🍔 Maverick Diner – All-American Reset

After a morning of near-animal-wrangling, we were more than ready for a proper meal, and in a turn away from Japanese cuisine, we went for a classic American lunch at Maverick.

Think:

• Juicy cheeseburgers
• Golden onion rings
• Crisp fries
• Cola for me, Dr Pepper for Josh

It totally hit the spot. There’s something about a simple, familiar meal that brings a bit of comfort, especially on a long travel itinerary.

🛍️ Back to Namba

We headed back into Osaka afterwards and spent the rest of the afternoon in Namba, ticking off a bit more shopping and soaking up the area’s buzz. Namba’s blend of local boutiques, international brands, and endless food options means there’s always something to see — even if you’re just wandering.

We didn’t pack too much in today, choosing instead to rest up and reset before another theme park day tomorrow. Japan doesn’t slow down, but sometimes you have to make it slow down.

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🕹️ Day 15 – Retro Gaming, Street Eats & Shinsekai Chill

After the pace of theme parks, temples and travel, today was all about slowing things down, but in a way that still felt fun and uniquely Japanese. So, we headed to one of Osaka’s most charming and retro neighbourhoods: Shinsekai.

🎮 Shinsekai – Osaka’s Throwback Playground

“Shinsekai” literally means “New World,” but don’t let the name fool you — it’s a nostalgic trip to the past. Picture a blend of:

• Seaside arcade vibes
• Old-school game halls
• Neon lights
• Skytower views
• Streets filled with food stalls and quirky character signs

It reminded us of those classic UK seaside towns, where you’d pop into penny arcades and lose a fiver to a claw machine, except here, it’s Street Fighter, Pac-Man, Mario, and all the nostalgic Japanese classics rolled into one.

We spent hours hopping between:

• 🎰 Retro arcade machines
• 👾 Button-mashing fighting games
• 🎯 Skill games with prizes (which we were so close to winning…)

It’s definitely worth a visit, especially if you grew up on any kind of gaming. There’s a laid-back, playful vibe here that makes it easy to just wander and enjoy without a set plan.

🍣 Market Eats – Sushi & Hotpot

For lunch, we kept it local and casual. We ducked into a market food stall, where Josh had a piping-hot Japanese hotpot, and I went for some fresh sushi. Nothing over the top, just simple, flavourful and satisfying.

The food in Osaka is consistently good, even when it’s not flashy. And there’s something special about grabbing a seat at a street stall, surrounded by locals on their lunch break, and just letting the day roll by.

We also walked past tons of Pokémon trading cards on display in glass cabinets — everything from modern booster packs to vintage, near-mint collectibles. If either of us had been into collecting, this would’ve been a dangerous (but very exciting) detour.

🧴 Beauty Haul & Home Prep

Before heading back for the night, we dipped into a few Japanese drugstores to stock up on beauty and skincare bits. Japan really is one of the best places for:

• Affordable but high-quality skincare
• Unique hair products you won’t find in the UK
• Creative packaging and formulas (and half the time, it works better than the high-end stuff!)

If you’re visiting Osaka, this is a good time to buy in bulk — prices are better than Tokyo and the options are endless. Plus, with many places offering tax-free shopping for tourists, you can save even more.

We ended the night back at our apartment, bags a little heavier, energy nicely recharged — ready for the next adventure.

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🎯 Day 16 – Lucky Daruma, Temple Tranquillity & A Curry Wind-Down

After a full-on few days, today was all about quiet reflection and cultural connection — and Katsuoji Temple delivered exactly that.

🏯 Katsuoji Temple – Home of the Winning Daruma

Located just north of Osaka, Katsuoji Temple is famous for its daruma dolls, which symbolise perseverance, success, and good luck. But what sets this place apart is the concept of the “winning daruma” — people come here to pray for success in everything from exams and careers to personal milestones.

As we explored the beautifully kept temple grounds, we were struck by how peaceful and well-maintained it all was. There’s something very calming about temples in Japan — the combination of mossy stone paths, distant bells, and gentle incense in the air. It’s not just a visual experience, it feels spiritual, even if you’re not religious.

We collected custom temple stamps at each checkpoint, which are part of a larger tradition where pilgrims and travellers mark their journey through Japan’s spiritual landscape. These stamps are beautifully inked, almost like calligraphy, and are usually kept in a dedicated book as a memento of your visits.

As we walked, we saw daruma dolls placed everywhere — on steps, ledges, tucked into gardens — each one left by someone hoping to achieve their wish. It gave the entire temple a sense of shared hope and intention, as though the grounds themselves were filled with people’s dreams.

💡 Tip: You can purchase your own daruma at the temple. You paint in one eye when you make a wish or set a goal, and the other eye once it’s achieved — a small but meaningful tradition.

👨‍💻 Meetings & Matcha

Later in the afternoon, Josh had to dip out for work meetings — the reality of travelling while balancing work life, so we took things at a slower pace for the rest of the day.

🍛 Nepalese-Indian Dinner Round Two

We ended the night at another Nepalese-Indian spot, and we’re definitely not mad about it. There’s something so comforting about this kind of food after a long, reflective day.

Dinner featured:

• 🔥 Spiced curry (perfectly warming)
• 🧄 Garlic naan (fluffy and fragrant)
• 🥊 A bit of live boxing on the screen, adding a strange but entertaining vibe to the meal

It was a simple but satisfying way to wrap up one of the most peaceful days of the trip so far. The contrast between Osaka’s buzzing streets and the serenity of Katsuoji Temple felt like the perfect balance.

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🎮 Day 17 – Universal Studios: Nostalgia, Rides & A Barrel of Fun

After a few slower-paced days in Osaka (and honestly, a much-needed reset), today was one we’d been really looking forward to — Universal Studios Japan! 🎢🎬

Sometimes the magic of a trip lies in the unexpected. Other times, it lies in the Mario caps, movie sets, water rides, and theme park food served in barrels.

🧢 First Stop: Merch Mode

Before anything else, we did what any good theme park visitor does, buy the merch. Josh picked up a classic Mario cap, and I went full kawaii with a Boo ghost headband and a mini bag to carry all the essentials. It instantly put us in theme park mode, walking around surrounded by characters and cosplaying fans is just part of the fun here.

🧙‍♂️ Hogwarts & Jaws – A Movie Lover’s Playground

Universal Studios Japan is basically a love letter to classic cinema, and if you’re even slightly into movies, you’ll get a real kick out of it.

Highlights from the first half of the day:

• Harry Potter World – Josh even jumped on a ride with a random family (the queues can be long, and single-rider is a hack to cut the wait). The set design here is on another level, from Hogsmeade village to the towering Hogwarts castle, it’s super immersive.
• Jaws Ride – Total chaos! You’re taken on a boat ride through “safe waters” that quickly become shark-infested, complete with explosions bursting out of the water.
• Jurassic Park – A classic log flume-style water ride, where you’re surrounded by caged dinosaurs before getting ambushed by a giant T-Rex, just before the final drop into the splash zone. Perfect in the sweltering Osaka heat.

💡 Pro tip: If you’re visiting during summer, dress light and be prepared to get wet. The combo of water rides and intense sun actually feels like a blessing.

🍌 Nintendo World – Childhood Dreams Come to Life

The highlight of the day, without a doubt, was stepping into Nintendo World. Serious gaming nostalgia hit us from all angles, this part of the park is meticulously designed to look and feel like a video game come to life.

You’ll find:

• Colourful blocks
• Spinning question marks
• Costumed staff
• Characters like Yoshi, Mario, Luigi and Bowser
• Music that instantly brings you back to childhood

We started off exploring Yoshi’s Adventure and walked through Bowser’s Castle, but the big surprise came when we found a new section that had just opened: Donkey Kong Country! 🦍🍌🌴

Josh’s inner child basically exploded.

We tried the DK Crush Float, which turned out to be one of the most unexpectedly great drinks of the trip:

• Banana and pineapple base
• Mango sorbet on top
• Wafer pieces
• Popcorn
• Served in a souvenir barrel mug you can keep

We rode the Mine Cart Madness rollercoaster — a fast-paced ride that recreated the iconic mine levels from the old Donkey Kong Country video games. Think jerky turns, jumps over “broken tracks,” and lots of screaming (mainly from Divina 😅). It was fast, bumpy, and incredibly fun — the ultimate nostalgia-fuelled thrill.

🍰 Hello Kitty, Night Lights & Italian Fare

We made a final pit stop in Hello Kitty World for some sweet treats before winding down the rest of the evening with a slow stroll around the park. Universal really shines at night, the park lights up, the energy softens, and everything feels cinematic in a different way.

For dinner, we opted for something a bit calmer: an Italian restaurant on site, tucked away from the main buzz. Pasta, a bit of bread, and a shared moment to breathe after a full-on day.

Too tired to brave the train back, we did the sensible thing and Ubered home, a well-earned ride after 12+ hours on our feet.

Absolutely worth every step.

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🧖‍♀️ Day 18 – Spa Recovery, Sushi Sessions & One Last Osaka Stroll

With Universal still lingering in our legs (and minds), today was about slowing down, soaking in the city, and saying goodbye properly to Osaka — a place that’s truly grown on us.

💆‍♀️ Spa Time, Round Three

I started the morning with another head spa and foot treatment, because why not? After full-on theme park days, my body was crying out for a bit of love, and this combo hit the sweet spot.

Japanese spa culture is so much more than just pampering, it’s quiet, respectful, and genuinely therapeutic. The head massages are done with intention, not just pressure, and the foot treatment soothed every mile we’ve walked so far.

🛍️ Souvenirs, Side Streets & Surprise Finds

Once fully zen, we hit the streets for one last proper wander. Osaka is full of little alleyways, local boutiques, and hidden gems that don’t show up in big guides, you really have to go out and find them.

We picked up:

• 🧸 Cute keyring souvenirs
• 🎎 Gifts for family
• 💡 Quirky bits from shops we couldn’t even name

It wasn’t about shopping with a plan, more like browsing with intention, soaking up those last few hours of Osaka energy.

🍣 Conveyor Belt Sushi – Maximum Fish Mode

We made it a mission to squeeze in as much sushi as possible before we left. We found a conveyor belt spot, very much like Yo! Sushi in the UK but way better in terms of freshness, variety, and price.

Plates zoomed past us with:

• Salmon belly
• Seared tuna
• Egg nigiri
• Weird but wonderful mayo-drenched combos
• And lots of green tea on tap

You tap your order on a screen, and within minutes, a little shinkansen-style tray delivers your dish. Super efficient, super tasty.

🐶 The Puppy That Almost Came Home

We passed a pet store on the way back and made the mistake of going inside. And there he was, the cutest puppy we’ve ever seen. Fluffy, tiny, slightly confused, and absolutely irresistible.

For a solid 10 minutes, we were convinced we could somehow bring him home. Reality (and international pet travel logistics) eventually snapped us back, but it was a serious test of willpower.

🍽️ Dinner by the Canal – A Perfect Send-Off

For our final dinner in Osaka, we snagged a rare outdoor table by the Dotonbori canal, which is no easy feat, especially in the evening.

It was hot out, but the evening breeze cooled things off just enough. The lights along the water lit up as people strolled by, and for a moment, it all just felt… still. A peaceful contrast to the energy Osaka usually brings.

Josh had to leave a bit early to catch up on work, and we started packing up — something about the act of folding clothes and sorting souvenirs really made it hit: this leg of the trip was coming to an end.

There’s a different pace in Osaka — something more grounded than Tokyo, more welcoming than Kyoto. And we’re glad we let ourselves take it all in.

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🚄 Day 19 – Foggy Fuji, Tokyo Luxe & Fried Pickle Regrets

Today was all about the return to Tokyo, with a bittersweet goodbye to Osaka and one more hopeful glance at Japan’s most iconic natural wonder: Mount Fuji.

🗻 One Last Shot at Mt Fuji

We boarded the three-hour train from Osaka to Tokyo, opting for priority seats on the left-hand side — the best position to spot Mount Fuji on a clear day. We’d missed out earlier in the trip due to fog, but this felt like our last chance.

Unfortunately, Mother Nature had other plans. The skies were foggy again, and while we caught a faint silhouette of the mountain, it was still shrouded in clouds. It felt just out of reach — a little mystical, a little teasing.

Still, we gave it our best shot. And there’s something quite poetic about that — not everything goes to plan, but it doesn’t take away from the journey.

🏨 Tokyo Hotel Vibes – Back to Comfort

Arriving back in Tokyo, we checked into our hotel in Ginza — Tokyo’s luxury shopping district, full of designer boutiques, upscale department stores, and polished streets.

And oh, it felt good to be back in hotel life again.

As much as we loved the authenticity and character of our Kyoto and Osaka Airbnb stays, there’s something unbeatable about:

• Comfy hotel slippers and pyjamas
• Complimentary skincare, teas, and coffees
• A laundrette, secure safe, and room cleaning
• A bonus voucher for snacks and drinks at the hotel shop

It all just felt like the kind of reset we needed after days of trains, walking, and bouncing between cities.

Sometimes, little luxuries matter, especially when you’re on the move as much as we’ve been.

🍗 A Very Questionable Hooters Visit

Tired from the day’s travel, we didn’t want to go far for food, and stumbled upon something neither of us expected to find in the middle of Tokyo: Hooters.

Yes, the American chain. Known for:

• Chicken wings
• Fried pickles
• Tank tops and sports bar vibes

In the spirit of curiosity (and slight laziness), we gave it a go.

Regret? A little 😅

The food was over-fried, the batter overwhelmed everything, and it just didn’t hit like it does in the US. But weirdly, the laid-back vibe and no-fuss menu were kind of what we needed after all the intense flavour-packed Japanese food.

So maybe not a meal to remember, but still a funny little detour to wind down the evening.

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🗻 Day 20 – Fish Market Feasts, Mt Fuji Magic & Nighttime Karting Adventures

We started today thinking it would be a chilled one, just a bit of sightseeing, good food, soaking up local vibes. But by the end, it turned into one of the most magical, adrenaline-filled, unforgettable days of the whole trip.

🐟 Tsukiji Fish Market – A True Tokyo Must

The morning began with a visit to Tsukiji Outer Market, one of Tokyo’s most iconic food destinations. If you’re a fan of seafood, this is the place to be.

The market is packed with:

• Massive Hokkaido oysters
• Plump king scallops grilled fresh over hot coals
• Wagyu beef skewers
• Sea urchin, salmon roe, crab and eel
• And hands down the freshest sushi and sashimi we’ve had to date

We shared a kaisendon (sashimi rice bowl) that came topped with:

• Sea urchin
• Crab
• Scallops
• Tamago (Japanese sweet egg)
• Salmon
• Tuna

All drizzled in a delicate soy and wasabi, it was pure heaven. We even found ourselves explaining to the vendor — mid-bite — that we needed to order more. When food this fresh hits your lips, you just know.

🔥 Bonus moment: those grilled king scallops, straight off the barbecue, had a warm, smoky depth that balanced beautifully with their buttery texture.

🗻 Mt Fuji – Third Time Lucky

While we were still buzzing from breakfast, we got talking about the one thing we hadn’t yet ticked off — Mt Fuji.

We checked the Fuji visibility forecast on our go-to app, and it showed 8/10 visibility — our best chance yet.

But it was a 2-hour train journey. We paused. We looked at each other. It was now or never.

We grabbed an Uber to Shinjuku Station, paid around £140 for two return tickets, and raced to catch the train.

And then… it happened.

About an hour into the journey, we looked out of the train window and saw it.

A massive, snow-capped silhouette rising through the haze — Mt Fuji in all its glory. Clear as day, finally.

We were speechless. It had eluded us for so long, and here it was, towering above the rooftops, watching over everything.

We jumped off at the nearest stop and made our way to Fuji Michi (Honcho Street) — a famous viewpoint that captures the mountain perfectly framed by local neighbourhood streets.

What makes Fuji Michi so special? It’s that surreal contrast:

• Everyday life, narrow roads, quiet homes, telephone wires
• Then boom, a majestic, towering volcano dominating the skyline

We darted into the street (when safe, of course!) for those iconic shots. Honestly, it felt emotional. We had almost given up hope — visibility is only 25% of the year — and yet, we made it into that small window.

We both could’ve cried. It was pure magic. An unexpected win on a trip full of surprises.

🏎️ Japan Kart – Tokyo at 40mph in a Tiger Suit

The day wasn’t done yet.

Back in Tokyo, we made our way to Kanda for one of the wildest experiences you can have in the capital, go-karting through the city at night with Japan Kart.

After a quick safety briefing and costume fitting — Divina and I went as Tigger and Eeyore — we hit the streets. And this wasn’t on a closed track or in a park.

Nope.

We were:

• Driving through real traffic
• Crossing Shibuya Crossing in go-karts
• Zipping down Tokyo’s inner-city motorways at 30–40mph
• All while lit up by the Tokyo skyline

It felt like being in a video game. People on the street were waving, taking photos, cheering us on. We made stops to capture moments, and we genuinely couldn’t stop smiling the whole time.

The ride lasted two and a half hours, but flew by in what felt like minutes.

By the time we returned the suits and got back to the hotel, it was nearly midnight. Our legs were tired, faces wind-blown, but hearts so full.

This day reminded us why we travel: the food, the spontaneity, the magic of saying yes, even when it feels like a long shot.

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🌇 Day 21 – Sky High Views, Solo Ramen & A Bavarian Goodbye

Our final full day in Japan, and we made sure not to waste a single second. From flagship fashion stops to panoramic skyline views and that one unforgettable bowl of ramen — this was the perfect Tokyo send-off.

👕 12 Floors of Fashion – Uniqlo Ginza

We kicked things off in Ginza, Tokyo’s luxury shopping mecca, at the flagship Uniqlo store, and when we say flagship, we mean 12 floors of carefully curated style.

Each floor had something unique:

• 🌸 Seasonal collections
• 🧥 Limited-edition collabs
• 🧁 Even a Uniqlo café on one of the upper levels
• 💐 A fresh flower bouquet display that looked like something out of a wedding fair

It’s hands down the most beautifully presented Uniqlo we’ve ever seen, and worth popping into even if you don’t buy anything (although we definitely did…).

🍜 Ichiran Ramen – The Solo Experience

From fashion to food, our next stop was a Tokyo rite of passage: Ichiran Ramen in Shibuya.

This place is known for:

• Tonkotsu pork broth
• Customisable orders (noodle firmness, broth strength, spice level, toppings)
• Private ramen booths — perfect for solo diners or anyone who wants to savour every bite without distraction

We both ordered the tonkotsu ramen and… it was honestly the best ramen of the trip. Rich, creamy broth. Perfect chew on the noodles. Just the right level of heat.

Even Divina, who’s not usually a ramen person, was in love with it — so you know it’s something special.

💡 Tip: You place your order through a form and hand it to the server behind your booth curtain. It’s a totally different kind of dining experience, intimate, focused, and somehow very peaceful.

🍓 Strawberries Worth Their Weight in Yen

After ramen, we popped into a luxury fruit store, and yes, the rumours are true: Japanese fruit culture is next level.

We saw:

• 🍓 Strawberries going for over ¥1,300 (£7) each
• 🍍 Pineapple that was hands down the juiciest, most flavour-packed we’ve ever had

These aren’t your average grocery finds, they’re carefully cultivated, boxed like jewellery, and eaten like dessert. A real treat and worth trying at least once.

🏙️ Shibuya Sky – A View Like No Other

We then headed up to Shibuya Sky, one of the best viewpoints in all of Tokyo. It’s 46 floors up and starts with a stunning ceiling video in the elevator, which makes it feel like you’re blasting off into the sky.

Once at the top, you take an external escalator to the rooftop, and from there, you get unmatched views of:

• The Tokyo skyline
• Shibuya Crossing
• And the golden glow of the setting sun

If you’re a photographer, a lens hood is highly recommended to cut down reflections through the glass.

We also made our way to Shibuya Magnet for another incredible view of Shibuya Crossing, this time from the comfort of an indoor platform, perfect for those long-exposure shots.

🍺 Bavarian Dinner & Last-Minute Souvenirs

To toast our last night in Japan, we went full Bavarian! Yup, Tokyo has a surprising love for German culture — and we found ourselves enjoying:

• Bratwursts
• Pretzels
• And even a boot of beer 🍻

The place had a great atmosphere, and it was such a fun way to mark the end of the trip — unexpected, quirky, and very Tokyo.

We finished the evening with a souvenir spree at Don Quijote, one of Japan’s most chaotic and wonderful shopping experiences. It’s the ultimate place for:

• Kit Kat flavours you didn’t know existed
• Quirky electronics and gadgets
• Beauty products
• Snacks, stationery, and anything in between

They even seal your purchases for luggage, making it stress-free to fly home with everything packed.

We zipped up our suitcases that night, exhausted but glowing, feeling so full of memories, culture, food and joy.

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✈️ Day 22 – Sayonara Japan 🇯🇵💔

Our final goodbye to Japan. And what a goodbye it was…

Running on just 2 hours’ sleep after a hectic night of squeezing our lives into multiple suitcases (yes, we had to buy an extra one), we made our way to the airport, heavy-eyed and heavy-hearted.

It wasn’t just about the packing, it was about trying to hold onto those last few moments, those final views, those fading flavours.

🧳 Back to Haneda – The Journey Home

We checked in for our British Airways flight back to the UK from Haneda Airport, a smooth but slightly underwhelming experience.

While the flight itself was safe and on time, the in-flight service just wasn’t what it used to be. The food was okay, the staff were polite, but the overall warmth and attention we remembered from previous long-hauls wasn’t quite there. It felt like the charm had been… economised.

We couldn’t help but wonder, has anyone else noticed this post-pandemic shift in airline service?

Still, none of that could take away from the magic of what had been the most incredible 22 days of our lives. Here’s some of the items we crammed into our suitcase for the return journey:

🇯🇵 Final Reflections – Japan, You Have Our Hearts

From:

• Sumo wrestling and sushi feasts 🍣
• To Mario Kart through the streets of Tokyo 🏎️
• Animal cafés, sacred temples, vintage Chanel, Mt Fuji’s reveal, and days of pure discovery

…this trip was everything we dreamed it would be, and more.

We didn’t just travel through Japan — we experienced it.
The culture. The quiet respect in temples. The wild buzz of city life. The thoughtful touches in every detail.
Every step felt intentional. Every moment, unforgettable.

So to Japan — thank you.

For the memories.
For the people.
For the food (oh my god, the food).
And for making us feel like we belonged, even just for a little while.

We’ll be sharing more reflections, photo dumps, and practical tips for planning your own Japan adventure soon — so stay tuned 💌

Until next time…
さようなら (Sayonara), Japan. You’ll always have a piece of our hearts.